The plateau
Kirchberg is 3km northeast of the old town, connected by the free tram in 15 minutes. It's where the EU Court of Justice, European Investment Bank and half the country's office space sit. Tourists come for two things: MUDAM (the modern art museum in I.M. Pei's building, entry $8) and the Philharmonie concert hall — check its cheap $15 lunchtime concerts.
Sleep and eat here
Melia, Novotel and Doubletree all have pools and cost 30-40% less than equivalent Ville Haute hotels. The tram makes the location painless. For food: Oberweis at Auchan mall is a proper Luxembourgish patisserie, and Um Plateau has good lunch specials $18-$22. Skip the mall food courts. On weekends Kirchberg empties out completely, which some love and others find eerie.
Good to know
Is Kirchberg worth staying in?+
Yes for value and if you’re arriving by air (tram straight from the airport). No if you want to walk out of your hotel into atmospheric old streets.
Are the EU buildings open to visit?+
The European Court of Justice offers free tours (book online, 90 minutes) most Fridays. Others are closed to the public.